Thursday 14 March 2013

Here be dragons.....

In former times, both the prospect and undertaking of travel have (usually) been a source of enjoyment. Since being diagnosed with kidney cancer and scoliosis of the spine however, my feelings have shifted. I want to use whatever time is available to see, to meet with, to experience both known and unknown people and places but I am also more circumspect about moving away from home with its comforts, security and routines.

All this is a preamble to recording that we have just returned from a few days in north Suffolk exploring the coastal region between Southwold and Aldeburgh. This is the area in which we were staying last Christmas (There and back again; 08/01/2013) but having received the gift of an overnight stay in a Suffolk village coaching inn from my sister, we thought it a good idea to turn the single day into a longer, exploratory holiday and then tacked onto it a weekend with the extended family in Norwich.

I particularly wanted to sample, with Di, the delights of Minsmere RSPB reserve. It did not disappoint - and neither did Di. She was so enthused that we spent the larger part of two days there. Safe within this wildlife sanctuary it was as though we could take long, deep breaths as the wheels of  the world slowed. Against the backdrop of the distant 'Taj Mahal of the nuclear age', Sizewell B power station, we scanned acres of brackish, shallow pools bespeckled with all manner of ducks, gulls and waders. With the help of various fellow-birders we spent hours in various hides disentangling our teal from our wigeon, our snipe from our redshank, our shovellers from shelduck, our avocets from exocets.

Walking alongside extensive, straw-coloured, reedbeds we briefly glimpsed the Wellington bomber of a bittern in flight and the dark and sinister spread primaries of hunting marsh harriers. We would have spent a third morning at Snape RSPB but the weather took a turn for the worse, reducing visibility and thereby our chances of seeing very much birdlife.

Thanks to an emailed suggestion from my friend John, exiled in London these last forty years, we also discovered the unusual, heather-cloaked 'sandlings' of Dunwich Heath which rises above Minsmere on its northern border. This elevated position is the reason for the location there of a block of old, white-walled, coastguard cottages now available for rent from the landowners, the National Trust. We will try to book a week very soon.

Finally, if you don't know Framlingham, it is well worth a visit. A barman insisted it was rated one of 'the ten best places to live' within the UK - but he did concede that it still lags well behind Moseley in Birmingham.The curtain-walled castle is enormous, signifying, as does the scale and wealth of the nearby church, the former status of what is today a small, relatively-unknown, market town. Now downgraded to a position where it is approached only by network of B roads, Framlingham's history and heritage leave us vestiges of the world of those who came before.

But to return to the theme of the first paragraph; however interesting, informative and delightful travel may be; however rewarding it is to see family and sites of familiarity - climbing into my own bed takes some beating. So here is another paradox; my condition provides both a stimulus to experience a wider world while at the same time, serving to shrink my horizons. In the last two years I have travelled to more places than ever but never been so fearful of the unknown obstacles that may arise; the furniture in a restaurant that makes sitting so uncomfortable, the bed that is too short or too lumpy, the inability to follow the diet that has become so central to my health, the prospect of mislaying my medication.

It is as though the psychological map of the known world has grown smaller and the uncharted oceans with their unknown lands, bear the medieval warning; 'Here be dragons.......'

1 comment:

  1. The trip and and its benefits and experiences sound great. I especially enjoyed your reflections about shrinking horizons and the uncharted hinterlands with the dragon warning.
    Also for me it's the case, that my wish and desire to travel to unknown places is vanishing. I (age 62) start to prefer more slightly acquainted places BUT have deeper and more intense feelings and sensations AND people and relationships become much more important.
    - By the way: a good idea also to go via facebook. By this I get an instant information about your new entries in your blog!!! Appreciating!

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